Friday, April 18, 2014

Cumberland Island

at the Ranger Station by the ferry dock

Cumberland Island is only accessible by ferry boat run by the National Park Service from St Mary’s, Georgia.. The public property on the island is run by National Park Service, there is still some privately owned property on the island.

the island's road is rustic

You can be a day tripper or a camper when you visit. There is nothing available on the island, if you want something be sure to bring it with you. If you bring something with you make sure you take it when you leave. Even potable water is limited.

one of the wild horses

The most interesting wildlife that visitors might see are the wild horses. It’s important to remember that the horses are indeed wild. Loggerhead sea turtles nest on the beaches. There are feral hogs on the island which can be pretty destructive. 

deer

When I was planning this MUSAP adventure I decided to sign up for the Land & Legacies Tour. The tour is done in a 15 passenger van that is driven on a dirt one lane road. Like the rest of the island it is rustic! The tour lasts all day so there is no time to explore other parts of the island that aren’t included in the tour route, including the beaches. It was okay for me on this trip because it was cloudy and cold all day.

Roy was happy to pose with MUSAP after our tour

The tour took us to the northern end of the island - about a 15 mile drive. Roy, our guide, provided information all the way about the history, the geography, and the wildlife of the island. We stopped at the little (and I mean little) church where JFK, Jr got married to Carolyn Bessette in 1996.

site of JFK, Jr's secret wedding

We had lunch at Plum Orchard, the Carnegie daughter’s home in the early 1900’s. Normally we would have eaten on the lawn behind the house near the river or on the spacious porches that wrap around the house. However on this day it was chilly so 3 of us made the decision to eat in the van and I think the others wish they had stayed with us. After we ate Roy led us in a tour of the mansion.

Plum Orchard

The most famous building, actually now ruins due to a fire in 1959, is Dungeness. This was the 59 room home of Thomas Carnegie, brother of Andrew Carnegie the steel magnate. Dungeness isn’t part of the tour, but Roy took us there for a quick look and walk around before we went back to the ferry dock.

the Dungeness ruins






Okefenokee ~ More than a swamp

Suwanee Canal Recreation Area ~ East entrance



the weather was getting warmer so there were plenty of alligators along the water's edge

This was a return trip to Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge for me. We visited there as a family when the boys were young and I had visited there a few years ago when I was in Georgia. Okefenokee is part swamp. but most of it is wetland prairie. The name comes from a Native American word that means 'land of the trembling earth'.


along the Swamp Trail


This is a lovely, natural place to spend some time. It was nice in March and I think it would be fun to go back later in the spring when more trees and flowers are in bloom. Visiting in the summer - no thanks! I’m sure it gets really, really hot.

it would be fun to explore other parts of the refuge. I went it the east entrance ~ Suwanee Canal Recreation Area because it was the closest entrance to where I was staying. There are other entrances on the north and west sides of the refuge. There are camping areas in some parts of the park. In this area you can rent canoes or kayaks to explore on your own. You can also bring in your own boat.

prairie area ~ boat tour


I took the boat tour through Okefenokee Adventures Boat Tours. This company operates from within the park. They have a small shop and snack bar next to the Visitor Center. Charlie, our guide, loves his job, being outdoors, the swamp, and the history of the area.

hawk with his lunch

The canal where we toured in the boat was developed because years ago developers thought they would be able to connect to other side of the swamp by boat.

Suwanee Canal


Charlie knew where a momma gator had a nest so we got to hear her hissing and see lots of baby gators. This was in the prairie are of the boat tour.

baby gators under mom's careful watch



Golden Club


After the boat trip I drove Swamp Island Drive. I had picked up a guide in the Visitor Center and there are markers along the way marking points of interest. I  stopped at Chesser Homestead and walked a wooded trail which wasn’t too interesting.  Then I parked and walked the boardwalk. This takes you over wetlands and has some great views.

the old boardwalk was destroyed by fire


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Friday, April 4, 2014

Georgia's Golden Isles

MUSAP loves the beach



My March 2014 adventure was a trip to the Golden Isles of Georgia ~ Jekyll Island, Sea Island, and St Simons Island. Georgia was state #11 for MUSAP.

Black Banks River, Sea Island



Part of the trip was a stroll down Memory Lane because we often vacationed on Sea Island when I was growing up. I remember going there as a teen with my grandparents and my family ~ time spent sitting by the pool, horseback riding on the beach, formal dinners in the dining room with long dresses expected on Thursdays and Saturdays. Then in the 80’s my parents took my family to Sea Island continuing the 5 star vacation tradition. These times it included lots of time at the pools and on the beach, horseback riding, learning to skeet shoot at the gun club, and getting 4 young boys into jackets and ties for dinner every evening. One year it included a trip to the Emergency Room when 7 year old Nick fell and broke his arm when we were there.

Sea Island Drive



No more 5 star resorts for me when I travel, the frugal yankee just can’t justify the expense. I didn’t even stay on one of the islands. I stayed in a Best Western in Kingsland , Georgia. It was nothing fancy, but the location was right for all of my day trips. Often I travel from place to place on my adventures which involves packing up every day or two. It was nice to stay in just one place for all of this adventure.

stormy day on St Simons



I woke up one my first full day in Georgia to gray, cloudy skies and temperatures that felt like home in March. It wasn’t raining… yet. Because of the weather forecast I hadn’t planned anything specific for this day. It was going to rain everywhere in the area so my options were somewhat limited. I decided to head north to St Simons and see if I could take a tour of the island. The trolley driver said she needed 6 people for the tour to run and there were just 3 of us waiting on the sidewalk at the pier, so that idea didn’t work out. I explored the pier with my camera and was able to get some photography done - there were dolphins swimming right by the pier, birds taking cover from the winds, and waves crashing along the rocks by the shore.

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When the winds got even stronger and started pushing me up the pier I headed back to the car and didn’t have to wait long for the rain to begin. I sat in car and watched and photographed the world through wet windows.

cargo ship leaving Brunswick in the rain



When the rain eased I decided to drive up the island and see how things had changed from when we used to vacation in the area. I went to see Fort Frederica, with only vague memories of being there when I was young. This historic site has been upgraded and is now a nice place to explore, if the weather is nice. The temperature was about 45º, the wind was blowing,  and the rain had eased, but not stopped. I watched a movie about the history of the fort in the Visitor Center. I had the theater all to myself. Then I took a quick walk around grounds to see the foundations from the homes and buildings and the walls of the fort. Fort Frederica can be added to my list of places that I would visit again on a sunny day.

Fort Frederica




Spanish Moss



A few days later I visited Jekyll Island. Jekyll is a popular vacation destination, but I had never visited before. I had a few places that I wanted to find. My first stop was the ruins of the Horton House. There isn’t too much to see, but it’s a great place to see remains of the old tabby construction that was used all over the area in the 1700’s. Next stop was Driftwood Beach. There are a few little parking areas along the road that provide beach access. Driftwood Beach is a treasure for photographers ~ so many possibilities. Wish I had been there when the light on the old fallen trees was better, but I am not a sunrise photographer.

Driftwood Beach




Driftwood Beach



I was looking forward to seeing the Georgia Sea Turtle Center. It’s a fairly new facility that opened less than 10 years ago to fulfill the need to care for injured or sick sea turtles that are found along the Atlantic coastline. They also have the goal of helping to educate visitors about sea turtles. I signed up for their Behind the Scenes Tour. It was okay but not great. We didn’t get any closer to the sea turtles than the general public. We got to enter the clinic space, surgery suite, and radiology room. In the space where the tanks are located (very hot) we got to see lots of diamondback terrapin hatchlings. We were taken next to the tanks with the larger turtles. The person doing the ‘feeding demo’ after our tour was more engaging and informative than our tour guide. The tour was just $15 ~ you get what you pay for. I think I expected to find out more of their mission and the process/steps from the time a turtle arrives until it is released or sent to a forever facility if it can’t go back to the wild. I think I would have been content to just visit the center and skip the tour.

Diamond Terrapin hatchlings




Glory, a young loggerhead turtle



On my final day I returned to St Simons and also visited Sea Island, which is accessible only from St Simons. Sea Island has changed greatly since I vacationed there with my family. The hotel went into bankruptcy and was then redeveloped. It is now gated and you can only get past the gate house, over the Black Banks River, and onto the island if you are a registered guest, an owner or guest at one of the cottages, or an employee. One of it’s claims to fame is that it hosted the G8 Summit in 2004 bringing together world leaders.

flags of the G8 nations



I was able to get past the gate house because I booked a horseback ride on the beach through the Stables at Frederica. The stable was relocated after the bankruptcy and is now way up St Simons near Ft Frederica. The have an annex on Sea Island with about 10 stalls and a trail over to the beach. So they trailer the horses over every day and run rides from their. This eliminates the part of the ride that went across the marshes.

Sea Island beach ride



My horse was named Jack Frost, appropriate for the New Englander in the group. He is the last remaining horse that was at the old stable location that I remembered. It was finally a warm, sunny day and perfect for being on a beach ride. Clayton, our trail guide was a confident young man who was happy to be spending his time with us. There were 3 other riders ~ a mother, her college age daughter, and a friend of hers. We rode to the south end of the island where we could see Jekyll Island across the river and then back again - about 75 minutes of relaxing fun. After the ride I considered driving further onto to Sea Island to see all the changes, but I decided some memories are best left as they are.

enjoying the beach with Jack Frost




looking towards Sea Island



After the beach ride I drove back to the pier on St Simons to try to catch a Colonial Trolley Tour. This is a different company than the one I tried earlier. Rod the driver was very friendly and enthusiastic about taking us on the tour and sharing his knowledge. There is so much history ~ native americans, English vs Spanish, American Revolution, slavery. I had visited Sea Island and with that St Simons many, many times. but I never knew much of the history of the area. Native Americans lived in the are 2 centuries before the Europeans, the oak for Old Ironsides came from St Simons in the late 1700’s, St Simons was the northern border of the Spanish territory which led to the British developing the area around Fort Frederica and another fort on St Simons, after the American Revolution the island was mostly plantations growing rice and cotton, and after the Civil War the island was a place for freed slaves. Rod shared information about the history and local places of interest for food and lodging. It’s all a sign that I liked a tour when I write a review on TripAdvisor.

Avenue of the Oaks at Retreat Plantation grounds




family history traces back to the days of slavery



After a busy time in Georgia it was time to drive back to Jacksonville for the flight home. I was ready to sit back and relax, my adventures tire me out.

former site of Sea Island Stables